The Old Koy Laws – village guards, stinky fruit and be careful where you put that graveyard.

On 3rd May 2012 the Turkish parliament debated and then passed an amendment to the land buying laws here in Turkey. The new amendment isn’t in effect yet, it still needs to be signed and then published in the official gazette but I received an early copy the other day and so I spent an eyeball bleeding morning translating it and putting it into context.

The context is the important bit because when amendments are made to laws here they are published as individual laws – for example this is Law 6302 and it’s title roughly translates as The Law Amending the Law on Land Survey – but they pertain to previously published and much more detailed laws. For example the four articles of Law 6302 are not standalone, they relate to, amongst others, Law 2644 Land Registry Law published in 1934 and Law 2565 Military Forbidden Zones and Security Zone Law published in 1981. You can’t really understand what they mean unless you know what they amend and what the rest of that law still says. Just knowing the amendment is like having only one piece of the puzzle.

Whilst I was working my way through the multiple layers of amendments which form the basis of Turkey’s legal system I came across the full text of a law I had heard mentioned many times but never read – The Village Law – and it made fascinating reading.

I live by The Koy Law, it determines, in very practical terms, how my village operates and it applies to anyone who is a member of a village, or koy, that uniquely Turkish, democratic invention that manages the lives and habitations of us peasants who gather together and call ourselves koy (it actually uses the words “peasant”).

The law is extensive, it was passed back in 1924, at the very dawn of the republic, and it was still being amended last year when a provisional additional article was added. Whilst large chunks of it have been repealed much of it is as it was back in 1924 and is still in force.

Article 13 details the responsibilities of the villagers, the compulsory tasks they have to undertake and how they must manage their village to reduce risks of disease. Keeping your village clean is important (!!!), for example:-

“Clause 7 – in the village and the houses around the village to keep the streets clean, each to sweep the front of its own house;”

Which explains why village ladies industriously sweep the road outside their own house only as far as the boundary to next door where they leave a neat pile of dust!

There are whole lengthy articles on how to manage rubbish – “stinky rotten fruit is taken out and buried and so wholesome things remain.”

And how to manage your graveyard – “The village cemetery in a place away from the village and the street, not on the water course, with a wall around the cemetery to stop the animal from entering and away from sweepings of fertilizer spill, take good care of the graves of everyone;”

The law enjoins people to work co-operatively, particularly in emergencies – “Accidental burning or destroyed the whole village help the poor to (re)make their homes;” and “remove money from a bank for the whole village and farm, garden, and give those wishing to take the seed and deposit the money then collect their debts every year;” In other words, help the poor people when it’s needed and extend credit in times of hardship.

Village guards get a lot legislation woven around them, their responsibilities, their uniforms, their pay and their age come in for a lot of legalise over the years – not sure who our village guard is, think it is Erkan who also is the village plumber, delivers the post, reads the water meter and issues bills; given he is rail thin, all elbows and knees and not too sturdy I reckon I could take him in an unfair fight!

The law instructs village guards as to how they should report bandits, how they can be held to account, and in one of the most recent amendments to the law, how old they can be. Retirement age from the arduous job of Village Guard has now been set at 55 years of age. I think some legislator wandered into a village and discovered a tea shop full of 90 year old guards and decided maybe the time had come to put a limit on how old and decrepit they could be!

I love this law, I could go on listing it’s clauses all day, because it is Turkey, in it’s purest form and I love the whole philosophy running through it, it tried so damn hard – it includes articles on how to give hospitality to travellers, enjoiners to bring books to the village, rules for democratic debate of village affairs, safeguards to stop one family taking over the running of the village. It really is quite an amazing law and you have to respect the men back in 1924 who first wrote it and now I better go bury some stinky fruit!

Posted in Living in Turkey, Renovations, Building and Property in Turkey | Tagged , , , , , | 4 Comments

Traditional food, stunning views – Olive Park Koy Sofrasi, Kusadasi

View of Kusadasi, Samos and Millipark from Olive Park Koy Sofrasi

Restaurants come and go here with surprising regularity as volatile Turkish business partnerships explode, implode, merge and feud, chefs come and go, sky high rents drive businesses into the ground and menu’s get changed to meet the, often incorrectly, perceived desires of international guests. It makes eating out a bit of a struggle and we should try more new places but disappointing past experiences keep as returning to our tried and tested and predominantly Turkish favourites. With the exception of the ever reliable Salt Box by the Wednesday Market, which has been serving outstanding fish and chips for a very long time we tend to avoid the restaurants offering British and International dishes as I don’t like paying for something I can cook better myself and having Nick get annoyed when I insist on tipping the blameless waiter for a horrible meal is not conducive to a pleasant evening out.

So we stick to the Turkish restaurants patronised by locals and that works for us. The chefs don’t mess with the food and try to pretend it is something it isn’t and if it isn’t good they’ll get removed because nobody is more picky about the crispness of their pide crust, the spice blend of their kofte and the freshness of their salad than the average Turkish professional out for a meal.

Map - Olive Park Koy Sofrasi, Kusadasi

We had been driving past the new Olive Park Koy Sofrasi all winter on our way back and forth to Kusadasi and kept meaning to try it. It’s on what we call the old Aydin road which runs from Kusadasi, through Yenikoy and Camlik and onto Aydin. The Olive Koy Sofrasi is on the left about a mile beyond Kusadasi city limits. There is a large sign outside and you can see the tips of it’s tented restaurant rising above the olive trees and as an added marker there is normally a rather chubby black goat chomping through the daisies in the field beside the road.

It’s a nicely set up operation; there are picnic tables amongst the olives for those who bring their own food and there is a generously sized restaurant at the top of the site with gorgeous wide ranging views over Kusadasi bay, the Millipark and Samos. Just below the restaurant are individual (currently curtained) booths for those who want to eat a la turk and feel they are in a Yoruk tent (Yoruk seems very popular here currently, going through a bit of a renaissance) and there are plenty of animals for the children to look at and things for them to play on. It’s a real family place, designed to spend a lazy few hours amongst cooling breezes enjoying good food slowly.

Olive Park Koy Sofrasi

For all the pet animals and the view and the cute trappings it’s the food I am mainly interested in though and here it’s good. Unusually there is a menu and you can order Cop Sis or kofte or tavuk sis or a variety of mese, they also have my favourite Tandir Kebab but it’s only available on certain days. It is best to ask the waiter what they have available on the day as honestly, in traditional restaurants like this the menu is just a maybe possibly thing and the waiter knows best.

On our first visit here we had generous cop sis, a variety of salads and mese and were given a bowl of Keşkek to try – I love Keşkek, it’s one of my favourite things – and this Keşkek was particularly good with enough meat in the thick wheat porridge and with a lovely subtle smokiness from being slow cooked over wood.

On our second visit we had a few more mese including some incredibly tender artichoke hearts and some excellent lamb chops and very nicely flavoured kofte. Apart from the Keşkek which you don’t see that often it was the usual choices but prepared incredibly well which is what makes the difference. Prices were reasonable, more than we’d pay in a roadside lokanta but less than we’d pay in town, dinner for four came to just over 100tl and there was loads and a full breakfast is advertised as 15tl which is a fair price given the spread and the location.

On our first visit early one afternoon the restaurant was busy on our second visit early one evening it was very quiet so I imagine this is going to be a daytime favourite and I expect it is heaving on a Sunday. The views are fantastic but the food really gives it the edge as far as I’m concerned. Well worth visiting.

About Keşkek

Keşkek is a traditional Aegean and Anatolian wedding dish; its so special Turkey applied for Unesco recognition of it under the heading of Intangible Cultural Heritage and back in 2011 this was granted.

We see it made a lot in the villages, where it is normally cooked outside the bride’s house in huge cauldrons stirred by burly men laughing their heads off at getting involved in cooking! Essentially it is a meat porridge of slow cooked wheat and lamb, the wheat having been cooked is pounded and stirred until it is thick and silky and the very tender slow cooked lamb is then stirred in. It’s normally served in bowls dressed with a drizzle of red pepper mixed with melted butter.

It’s not the most immediately appetizing looking dish and if you don’t know what it is you’ll ignore it on a mese selection but it has amazing flavour if cooked in the traditional way over a wood fire and well worth trying if you get the chance.

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That was April – between can’t and can.

April is not the greatest month for me, despite everything around me growing and blooming and waking up I tend to turn inwards and get quieter and more shut down as the anniversary of Phil’s death approaches – four years now, seems like yesterday and million years ago. Nick realises this and tries to make April cheerful and busy and every time I curl inwards mentally he comes up with something new to make me get out and about, trips into the mountains, days at Teos and Sigacik, ideas and plans and projects bubbling away. He tries so hard, bless him.

April should be my favourite month, it’s my daughter’s birthday, it’s Spring bounding and bouncing with wild enthusiasm, it’s wisteria blooming and goat kids skipping and days that get warmer and longer and more comforting every day but now the best way for me to think about it is that it’s the balancing point of the year, the moment between can’t and can.

Can’t imagine wearing less than ten layers and then can.
Can’t imagine the heat to come and then can.
Can’t swim in the pool and then can.
Can’t sleep with the window open at night and then can.
Can’t cut flowers for the studio and then can.
Can’t bear to watch the remembrance poppies bloom and then can.
Can’t imagine making it through another year and then can.

April, the tipping point into summer, it gets better from here.

Posted in A Turkish Yearbook | Tagged , | 3 Comments