Owning a vehicle in Turkey

November was all about banks and money, December was all about vehicles as Nick finally got himself a suitable motorbike after a three year search. As a result the next few posts are about vehicles in Turkey.

After all these years in Turkey I still maintain that one of the biggest day to day differences between here and home isn’t the language or the food or the houses, the biggest, in your face difference is vehicles. From buying one, to owning one, to running one, it is very different to at home.

Primarily this is to do with the costs of both buying and running a vehicle. Turkish cars cost loads and Turkish fuel is massively expensive. Cars are easily twice the cost of the UK to buy and petrol is slightly more expensive on our current lavish exchange rate, however average wages are less than half what people earn in the UK and so in real terms cars are probably four or five times more expensive to buy and run here.

Cars also hold their value here so there are few bargains to be found on the second hand market and in some cases a second hand car can often increase in value due to changing market conditions – my little Hyundai is now worth 3.500tl more than I paid for it nearly three years ago, primarily because it’s diesel and as fuel costs go up the value of small cars that give good mileage goes up comparatively.

Here are a few bits of info about buying and driving vehicles in Turkey :-

1. Make and model – certain vehicles come into Turkey under special importing licenses and whilst not the most glamorous of makes they are good value for here, so don’t ignore Dacia’s and Tata’s and other manufacturers sneered at by the lads from Top Gear. All parts that have to be imported for high end foreign made cars and bikes will cost a lot. For example, a front tyre for Nick’s motorbike costs between 350-450 Euros here in Turkey, it costs around £50 in the UK and fortunately we can ship them in as gifts for personal use (Merry Christmas – festively wrapped tyre, with a bow) but that means waiting if you have an emergency.

2. Underpowered much! – most cars here will be the lower powered version of what you know from home. My last car in the UK was a 2ltr convertible, you can get them here, but only the 1.6ltr version, which honestly would be seriously underpowered because the car was very, very heavy because of the roof mechanism. You may know the particular make of car you are considering but take it for a serious test drive before you buy or you may spend a couple of years making encouraging hip thrusts on steep hills.

3. Shopping around – You won’t get a great deal on a new car here by shopping around, the car dealerships don’t have a lot of room to manoeuvre due to the taxes and you’ll be lucky if you find a couple of hundred lira difference between them. Shopping around may end up costing you more due to the price of the damn fuel running between garages!

4. Commercial vehicles – some cars are not cars, they are commercial vehicles, the hideous brick with wheels which is the Doblo is one of them. As commercial vehicles they have different rules and restrictions, they need more regular inspections, a lower speed limit applies to them and the tax and insurance costs are different. Just be aware.

5. One year, one license – if you plan to be driving here for more than a year you should get a Turkish driving license. It’s not hideously expensive and is quite a giggle (psychiatrist report required – Turkish psychiatrist “Are you mad”, Foreigner, “Not currently” Tick, stamp, sign with squiggle, done) and whilst most traffic police won’t care you’re prepared for when you meet the one who does care and is going to ruin your week over it.

6. Worshipping the Original – Turks, like Nick, worship at the altar of “original”. Cars will be glowing described as “all original” when they are scratched and dented to buggery because Original allows you to see what you are buying and non original, i.e. repaired/resprayed/welded together hides a multitude of implied sins. Nobody corrects minor dings and scrapes here because any repairs imply the car has been in a big crash and nobody wants that and so their value is reduced if you repair it. As a result when some pillock in a dolmus takes your wing mirror off in the jostle for the lights you just tape it back on and proudly point out it is original come selling up time. Bizarre but true.

7. Standing out in the crowd – For those who have to own vehicles on Mavi Plaka registration plates (foreign residents) only the named owner will ever to be allowed to drive your car or ride your motorbike. Some people will happily swear this isn’t true and anyone in the family/with the same surname/living at the same address can drive it, personally I wouldn’t want to bet my insurance payout on them and their assurances. Fortunately we buy vehicles through our company so a whole level of hassle and ambiguity is avoided for us and anyone with the right license can drive our vehicles with our permission.

8. Notarise this – Notary costs for transfer of ownership are based on the book value of the vehicle, irrespective of what you paid for it and the notaries have huge ledgers detailing the ever so slowly depreciating value of all vehicles in Turkey. Notaries these days tend to do all the relevant checking during the transfer process to ensure all debts are paid and the tax is up to date so it’s not as potentially fraught a process as it used to be but still check yourself that all fines and liabilities are cleared from the vehicle, just for your own peace of mind.

9. Make it officially mine – Following transfer of ownership you have 30 days to register the vehicle in your name with the Traffic Police in your home town and get the registration documents changed. I don’t know how this works with foreigner owned vehicles, I think it’s a bit more involved, but basically I bung my traffic insurance guy a few lira and he runs around doing the paperwork and I turn up at the traffic police office in town at the end of the process to sign and collect the new registration and get stared at suspiciously for being female, owning a company and owning a vehicle, amazing what you can do despite having breasts.

10. Tick, tick, tick, stamp, check, stamp – Any piece of paperwork relating to a vehicle must be double and triple checked to ensure it is correct – cc, colour, make, year of production, your details, particularly the spelling of your name etc. Any changes in the future will cost and you will be the one paying even if they are as a result of an error not of your doing. A friend recently had to cough 100tl because when he took his car for the TUV (the Turkish equivalent of the MOT) a certain box hadn’t been ticked, yet the car had passed two previous inspections without the tick – basically check everything so you don’t leave yourself open to these deeply irritating little expenses.

The second hand car market in Turkey is huge, because every car is always for sale and most people will buy a car and then straight away bung it on www.sahibinden.com the Turkish equivalent of Ebay, at a price higher than they paid for it. They do this with houses too, just on the off chance a nutter with more money than sense comes along.

There are currently quarter of a million cars for sale on Sahibinden, mainly for sale by owner and you can while away many a rainy afternoon sniggering over the pictures and prices on the site. That said, both our vehicles have been bought privately from the site and if you have the patience to trawl and are willing to travel and can get by in Turkish it’s a good way to find vehicles and Nick has actually made loads of friends by chatting to people he met via Sahibinden motorbike adverts.

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Custard Tart with Cranberries

Custard Tart with Cranberries

Thursday was market day in Fishguard when I was a child and my Gran would buy us custard tarts from the brilliant bakery stall; individual ones, with thick sweet pastry and a creamy wobbly filling of vanilla and nutmeg spiced custard.

We weren’t allowed sweets and so the custard tart was a big deal. I would eat it slowly, with a teaspoon, first the custard, carefully scraping every last bit from the pastry shell and then the case itself, crisp and sweet. I loved them and so did my brother (I wonder does he still eat them? I doubt it, he looks like Gary Barlow and it takes a lot of effort and I think custard tarts are banned).

I was flicking through recipes the other day and was considering an American recipe for a milk tart with granola topping (muesli to us) and I thought, no, I’ll do a proper custard tart, so comforting at this time of year. I asked Nick if he liked them, and he did, and so the choice was small individual ones or one giant one – no contest really if Nick likes the idea, giant one it is.

Custard tart may not be the most lightweight of recipes for those starting the New Year on a starvation kick but it’s easy to digest after all the Christmas indigestion and it’s comforting in the depths of winter.

The Sweet Pastry:-

Round about now my lovely husband would have been doing an excruciating impression of Thora Hird in an Alan Bennett play commenting on the shortness of the pastry as she brushes crumbs off her tweed skirt, because this is, apparently, for those old enough to care, a very short pastry – in other words crumbly and allegedly hell to work with. Personally I don’t worry too much about pastry, I find it easy because I’m too lazy to over work it which makes it tough and I always use all butter so it taste good.

Put 180 grams of plain flour in a bowl with 30 grams of icing sugar and grate in 100 grams of really cold butter (sneaky cheat). Rub it between your fingers until it’s breadcrumby. Mix the yolk of an egg with a couple of tablespoons of cold water and pour into the flour. Stir with a butter knife to combine and then tip it out on the work surface and squash it all together until it forms a single lump.

Wrap it in clingfilm and bung it in the fridge for a while – go and watch episode of The Simpsons (22 minutes).

When its time to roll the pastry out make sure you have loads of flour on the work surface because this pastry does get sticky quickly. Roll it out enough to line an 8inch flan dish (loose bottomed is best) and bake blind for twenty minutes in a medium oven. I prick the bottom of the pastry and give it a quick brush with egg wash if its getting a really wet filling like this is.

The Custard Filling:-

250ml milk
200ml cream
A good, generous grating of nutmeg (I used half a whole one because I love nutmeg)
Two tablespoons corn flour
Two tablespoons sugar
One teaspoon of vanilla essence
Three whole eggs and the white of the egg yolk you used in the pastry whisked lightly in a large bowl.

Put everything bar the eggs in a saucepan and stir gently as you bring it up to scalding point – till it steams a bit, but doesn’t boil – pour the milky stuff onto the whisked eggs. Whisk briskly for a few minutes then pour into the pastry case and put in the oven for about 40 minutes (two episodes of The Simpsons or one episode of House or the wedding scene in Breaking Dawn but that feels lots longer).

Once cooled scatter with dried cranberries and a sift of icing sugar. Alternatively you can make a syrup with the dried cranberries, a splash of wine and some sugar and spice and serve that with the custard tart.

I miss bakery stalls in old town halls. I don’t even know if the Thursday market still runs in Fishguard and the smiley old baker who called every housewife “Cariad” (darling in Welsh) must be long gone. But I remember his custard tarts and his rich dark squashy squares of bread pudding and his apples slices generously scattered with crunchy confectioner’s sugar and I miss them still.

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That was the year that was – 2011

Another Turkish year has passed in Kirazli village – very quickly – and here is a roundup of pictures from my Turkish Yearbook for 2011.

January – A frothy start

A slight mishap in January with the pool chemicals and the waterfall meant new year in Kirazli started with a foam party. It took three days to sort it out but Nick got to happily strip the pumps as a result.

The parade of the wrestling camels in Selcuk in January was an ideal opportunity for a little municipality self promotion – optimum advertising, your slogan on a camel’s bum. The cultivated cyclamen began their long and joyous winter flowering to keep us cheerful in the depths of winter.

February – Technicolor sunsets and winter work

Winter is our time for routine maintenance because our season starts early and so the annual teak oiling is done in February because wood really suffers here in the massive temperature variance and apart from that it never dries properly if you leave it until real Spring and stays tacky for months.

The sunsets at Pamucak beach this February were truly spectacular and Shadow ran herself to exhaustion posing against a flat calm sea and wide grey beach, she loves the drama of it all! Sunset at Pamucak on sunny cold days is a regular trip out, followed by a snack in Selcuk on the way home.

March – Blossom Season

Our stone walls are still bare in early March but the whole valley is starting to flower and pretty soon every tree is breaking out in blossom and the valley is covered in pink and white petals from the almond and cherry trees. The neighbours tree up the road always puts on a beautiful show and it cheers you up no end to open the curtains one morning and see it has flowered in the night.

Also this March our neighbours bought a new cockerel, he is indeed a fine figure of a cock but he is also a macho beast fond of the sound of his own voice, I don’t notice, I sleep through everything, but even daughter commented on how loud and sustained his doodle dooing was. Ahh the peace of the countryside.

April – Forgetting winter, quickly.

April is superfast Spring heading urgently into Summer. The clematis that buds in the first days of the month is flowering by the second week and by the end of the month is so beautiful I tend to stand there and stare at it and am amazed that I grew this thing – well I watered it, a bit, and loved it lots, if that counts as growing it.

The dogs tend to get their first outside bath of the year and are resigned to the spending the next few months mainly soapy and drying in the sun.

May – Family fun time

May is the start of the main tourist season and the cruise ships are racked and stacked around the quays in Kusadasi – this year my Mum and Dad will be on one on them for a long awaited visit to Turkey.

May is family time; I only get to see my daughter once or twice a year now she is working and in May she normally comes to Turkey and we do tourist stuff, go to Adaland, take Turkish baths and get to spend a week doing longed for family stuff. It always goes too fast.

June – Cherry season and a full house

Glorious June, before the heat of high summer saps your energy and turns you into vampire creatures who creep about in the cool of the night. The verges are all yellowing grass and the dust lies thick on the farm tracks but the cherry harvest it on, that ever so brief, long awaited harvest that the village relies on. This year our guests joined the cherry harvest and worked amongst the cool shade of the orchards helping our friend Ahmet bring in the crop.

July – High summer and high hopes

It’s high summer and day time trips are confined to brief visits to Selcuk for the Saturday market and to show guests the kilim and carpet sellers in the town.

Sunsets are beautiful and lingering at this time of year and when we walk the dogs along the valley edge at dusk the light changes colour second by second.

This June we finally made our minds up to stay in Turkey and we started to think about expanding what we own here and started looking for an additional house to buy, it will take ages, it always does, because what we like is rare, but it’s fun searching.

August – Seasons in the sun

It’s August and everything in the village kitchen gardens comes into season at once, peppers are being strung and hung to dry and the last of the soft fruit, the plums, are given as gifts by generous neighbours.

The old men in the tea shop while away the hottest hours in the shade of the chestnut trees and given their age, indulge in some tea, whilst the rest of the villagers keep the Ramazan fast that fell in August this year.

September – Summers end

We see a cloud! But it doesn’t rain, just rumbling thunder and lightening flickering around the mountains. It is cooler though, and the lovely light of autumn makes photography easy and well if you have a fig you have to photograph it, there are worse ways to pass the time.

Late September the swallows gather on the phone lines outside the house, they leave at the end of the month, and every year they do one last spiralling circuit of the mosque to get their bearings before they head south. It always makes me sad to see them go.

October – Mellowing into Autumn

October in Kirazli is like living in an advert for apple pies. Early in the morning the valley is full of mist and the heavy dew that sometimes freezes in a tiny pocket of frost makes the last fruit on the trees glitter like Christmas. As the sun rises over the mountain it lights the last of the grapes on their rusty vines and warms the valley into the short days to come.

November – Harvest end

If you are prepared to run the gauntlet of the weather gods and wait until the very last minute then the prize is the biggest, sweetest grapes, grapes so massive the vine needed an epidural to produce them, grapes which are valuable and fought over by the buyers who wait at the teashop in the last days of the harvest in November. These grapes have had the benefit of every last sunbeam and it shows. But between one day and the next the harvest is done and any left on the vine when the rain comes and the frost blights are left to dry and crisp and crumble on the stalk, not worth picking. It is a gamble, but it’s worth it to the farmers who win.

December – Creeping shade

In the short days of December when the light leaves the valley too early Mr Evils, in a fine winter coat, decides he is after all a domestic cat and returns to slum it at home with staff for the winter duration.

The days are too quick, the sunsets quickly slipping from brilliant orange to midnight blue in minutes although the views of the stars and planets are fantastic, with Jupiter in the west and Venus in the east and my beloved Orion arched protectively over the village in the night.

It has been an amazing year, with some real highs; we had a brilliant and very long season with guests and met some lovely people, I am still overjoyed at getting a Literary Agent in October and Nick after three years of scouring Turkey finally found a bike he was prepared to buy, a Triumph Thunderbird.

2012 looks fun and exciting with lots of projects on and I think it’s going to go by even more quickly than 2011 did.

Happy New Year!

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